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sweeney's

[address]

96 Dale St. N St. Paul

[phone]

(651) 221-9157

[date of visit]

7/19/2002

[price]

[summary]

Hot and super cheesy, just the way a Juicy is supposed to be. The outside seating was a nice bonus, too.

NOTE: As far as I know Sweeny's no longer serves a Jucy Lucy. It obviously did at one point, but the latest information I have is that it's gone.

[the joint]

Sweeney's is a neighborhood bar and grill type joint over in St. Paul. It looks old, so it probably is. When you enter the place, the bar is on the right side and on the left are a couple of tables and a staircase leading to some other 'upstairs' area. The night we were there the upstairs was closed, so it was not scouted. The whole joint has a neat atmosphere about it. Where Sweeney's really shines, however, is not inside, but out. Through the bar, out behind the building, is a great little patio, full of tables and people and all that good stuff. Being such a nice night, it was a no-brainer that the team would dine al fresco.

[the food]

Sweeney's is a typical bar food type joint. They try and get cute on their menu by labeling the appetizers 'Heath Food', but it's all the same stuff: wings, nachos, artichoke dip and all that. The rest of the menu is a diverse take on the typical. As a whole, the ingredients are high quality and a lot of the stuff that's typically manufactured, like guacamole, is made fresh. That's a bonus. Unlike other places we've visited, though, I don't believe Sweeney's grinds their own hamburger or bakes their own buns. I guess you can't have it all. Or at least if you can, we haven't found it yet.

I have no idea how long Sweeney's has been serving Juicy Lucys, but there's no question that they've figured out the how to do it right. Two nice-sized beef patties stuffed with a generous portion of cheese make-up the basics of their version, but it's the extra touches that start to set them apart. Things like an extra slice of cheese [!] and a freshly cooked onion ring [!!] on top of the burger show that they've chosen to give the Lucy the respect she deserves. The whole shootin' match is served with some hot, crispy seasoned fries and a bunch of worthless pickles. (Get some real damn pickles, already. Who eats those floppy green quarters?)

We ordered five JLu's and found them to be surprisingly consistent. Consistently delicious that is. Except for Grossie, who found his to be overcooked and - unbelievably - devoid of cheese. That's right, a hollow Juicy. Sucks to be him. Strangely, he chose not to send it back, but went on and finished his "dry and tight" dinner. The rest of us preferred ours hot and wet. To each his own, I guess.

On the downside, at $8/basket, the prices were a little steep. And the basket didn't include slaw, which is always nice - and I thought customary - in a basket.

[service]

Service was fine. They have runners for food, which is nice. When we talked to them about Grossie's broken burger, they offered to replace or comp it, just as they should.

[conclusion]

A damn fine joint. Four out of five of the Juicy eaters preferred Sweeney's over our first stop, the 5-8 Club. Great food, great atmosphere, great times.